Date: 2017-01-07 14:08
With the increasing popularity of rock climbing, cases of sports injuries have also increased dramatically. Since climbing is a sport that emphasizes the strength of the hand, the fingers, wrists, elbows, and shoulders account for almost all of the damage. However, the rock climber often knows little about the types of injuries and their defenses, and even ignores their seriousness or delays when they visit the clinic. Eventually they are forced to end their climbing career. The purpose of this paper is to analyze and sort out the relevant knowledge of sports medicine at home and abroad in order to reduce the incidence of sports injuries and improve the effect of climbing training. Outdoor climbing skills, rock climbing injuries and prevention! Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
Second, the type of rock climbing injury
According to a 1995 medical survey report for 42 professional climbing players of the American Sports Climbing Association (ASCF), the most common sports injuries for rock climbers include the following 11 types of hand, shoulder, and elbow injuries. Next, we will further analyze and introduce the causes, symptoms and diagnosis of the first eight injuries.
(A) hand sports injury
1. Injury to the lateral collateral ligament of the finger: Sprain or fracture of the lateral collateral ligament of the finger is the most common exercise injury in climbing. The joints of the metacarpophalangeal joint and the metacarpophalangeal joint of the proximal interphalangeal joint of the middle finger, index finger or ring finger, and the interphalangeal joint are the main components. When a rock climber moves a pocket with a dynamic action, the proximal three-finger proximal interphalangeal joints will be subjected to extreme forces and sharp bends in the middle of x; the action of the pinch will be easy to make. The metacarpophalangeal and phalangeal joint sprains of the thumb. The most common symptoms of patients are joint swelling, stiffness, chronic pain, and movement limitation. If the fingers flex and unstable when pressure is applied to the affected part, the epicondylar ligaments have completely broken; if the patient only feels pain, However, if the affected area is still stable, it may only be a sprain. As for the treatment method, if the ligament is only a sprain, the affected part must rest and apply ice and swelling. Then, the affected finger and neighboring fingers can be tied together by means of abutment and fixation method, and light pressure is applied to the dorsal side of the joint deformed part to guide the restoration. After two weeks of fixation, the finger can be tested for exercise. The swelling and pain in the affected area will continue for months, but rock climbing is still possible. If the ligament is completely broken, the patient will have to go to the clinic for further treatment and assess the feasibility of the surgical treatment. If non-surgical treatments are used, it may be difficult for the fingers to apply force after recovery.
2. Flexor tendon injuries: There are two flexor tendons per finger (except for the thumb), in which the flexor digitorum can flex the proximal interphalangeal joint and the metacarpophalangeal joint between the metacarpophalangeal and the metacarpophalangeal joints; Interarticular, proximal interphalangeal joints and metacarpophalangeal joints. When climbing, the closed type tends to cause tendon tearing of the flexor superficial muscles, while the pockets tend to tear the flexor digitorum tendon. When the flexor tendon tears the flexor tendon, the proximal interphalangeal joint will be difficult to bend; when the flexor digitorum tendon tears, the distal interphalangeal joint is difficult to bend, and the pain, swelling and grip of the affected area disappear, and the pinching force disappears. Common symptoms. During the examination, the proximal phalangeal joint may be straightened and the fingertip may be bent. If the patient's finger cannot flex the distal interphalangeal joint, the flexor digitorum tendon muscle injury occurs. As for the examination of the flexor digitorum tendon, Place the palm of your hand up on the table, and maintain the four fingers outside the affected finger in a stretched position and bend the finger. If the finger is unable to flex, the flexor digitorum tendon of the finger is injured. As for diagnosis and treatment, patients should be treated promptly after injury to judge the condition correctly and assess the possibility of surgical repair. If you decide to take surgery, it must be done within two weeks. Outdoor climbing skills, rock climbing injuries and prevention! Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
3. The second ring pulley (A2 pulley) injuries: There are 5 ring pulleys in each finger to connect and fix the bone fingers and tendons (except for the thumb), and the often bent tendons will rub against the pulleys. And it causes it to tear. The second ring pulley is located at the proximal metacarpophalangeal and interphalangeal joints, and the rock climber often tears due to excessive force due to a closed type of closure. Among them, the middle finger and the ring finger are the most common. According to statistics, about 40% of professional climbers suffer from the medical record of the second ring-shaped block injury. In severe cases, the second ring pulley will be completely broken, causing the flexor tendons to no longer fit into the phalanx and exhibit bowed curvature, the so-called bowstringing. The diagnosis of the second ring-shaped block injury is not easy, and the cause must be correctly detected by nuclear resonance or computerized tomography. As for treatment, if it is only a laceration, it can be wrapped in tape and stop rock climbing for 2-3 months. However, if the ring pulley has completely broken, it must be repaired by surgery.
4. The trigger refers to a condition in which the flexor tendons of the finger are inflamed, most often in the first quarter of the ring (A1 pully) in the middle finger, ring finger, or thumb. A normal tendon will slide back and forth within the trochlea that maintains the motion space, but if the tendon develops a nodule due to inflammation, the nodule can still pass the trochlear when the finger is bent, but it will stick to the palm side of the trochlear when stretching. When it is slight, external force is required to pull the fingers apart, and when the nodules squeeze over the pulley, a sound like a guillotine striker is generated. When severely inflamed and swollen, your fingers may not even move in the bend. As for the examination, it is generally possible to touch a tender nodule directly in the affected area, and it is mostly located in the metacarpal and interphalangeal joints. In severe cases, the proximal phalanx joints may also be stretched or curved. As for the treatment method, the metacarpal and interphalangeal joints can be initially fixed in an extended position (about two weeks), short-term non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents (NSAIDs) or local injections of steroids. However, because repeated injections of steroids may cause rupture of the flexor tendon or injury to the sensory nerves of the fingers, if the condition does not improve within one month or after two injections of steroids, the adhesion of the tendon sheath should be removed or removed. Outdoor climbing skills, rock climbing injuries and prevention! Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
(b) Shoulder sports injury
The so-called shoulder joint is a joint formed by the labrum and the scapula of the scapula, and the clavicle is transverse to it, forming an acromioclavicular joint with the shoulder. The ankle joint is a ball-and-socket joint. The sacrum is covered in a shallow labyrinthine socket and is stabilized by the active labrum, joint capsular ligaments, and passive deltoid and rotator cuffs. . In this confined space, frequent friction and collisions between joints, tendons, ligaments, and bursa can cause tears such as spine, bursitis, biceps tendonitis, and spinous muscle tendons. Inflammation and other shoulder injuries are called Impingement Syndrome. The common conditions of attack syndrome include the following three types:
1. Rotation belt gingivitis: The rotation belt is composed of the subscapular, supramillate, axillary, and teresa muscles. These muscles surround the sacrum and play an important role in shoulder stability and arm movement. However, because the rotating belt is adjacent to the arch-shaped projectional tissue formed by the acromial and condylar processes, frequent friction will cause the rotation zone to rupture, and the damage of the supraspinatus muscle tendon is the most common.
2. Bursitis: There is another tissue between the rotation belt and the acromion-coracoid, called the bursa, whose function is to reduce the frictional collision between the two. Frequent impacts will inflame the bursa, and the most common one is shoulder bursitis.
3. Biceps Tendonitis: The rupture, swelling, and inflammation of the rotating belt will cause an abnormal blood supply to the tendon, which will accelerate the wear and tear of the biceps brachii tendon.
Patients with poke-mark syndrome usually have shoulder and frontal pain, shoulder movement range (especially the arm can not hold too much), arm muscle weakness and other symptoms. The purpose of the initial treatment is to reduce the pain and swelling, and adjust the training to rest the affected area. Then, muscle strengthening exercises (such as: training of the lower trapezius muscle and serratus muscle) and shoulder stretch stretching exercises can be used. If necessary, short-term non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents or local injections of steroids can also be administered. Outdoor climbing skills, rock climbing injuries and prevention! Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
(c) Elbow sports injury
The most common elbow injury for rock climbers is so-called epicondylitis. On the other hand, due to the different causes and injuries of the upper eyelid, it can be divided into the upper part of the humerus (known as the golf elbow) and the upper part of the humerus (also known as the tennis elbow). Among them, the medial maxilla of the patella is the starting end of the flexor digitorum superficialis and the flexor of the lateral wrist, while the lateral maxilla is the starting end of the extensor digitorum and the lateral wrist extensor. In terms of the characteristics of rock climbing to emphasize flexor strength, The chance of epicondylitis is higher. Epicondylitis refers to the traction of the flexor (extensor) muscle of the forearm, which causes a tear, inflammation, swelling, and other symptoms attached to the origin of the epiphyseal (external) epicondyle. The symptoms include: Pain, flexion (extensive) finger and flexor (extensor) wrist muscles and other extensive tenderness. As for treatment, patients should be treated with fasciotomy if they allow the muscles in the affected area to rest properly, apply physical therapy such as local hot compresses or ultrasonic waves, and perform lacing and strength training on affected muscles. Outdoor climbing skills, rock climbing injuries and prevention! Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
Climbing injury prevention measures
(a) Basic principles
The following principles will help rock climbers identify the warnings of sports injuries and prevent them from happening.
1. Gradually increase training intensity and give the body adequate adaptation period
2. If the point is not within the range of force, do not force it.
3. Cultivate the right training methods and correct your climbing style or habits that are easily hurt
4. In the event of an injury, the plan must be changed as soon as possible, and the patient should not be exacerbated by eagerness.
5. Try to balance the climbing movement so that the pressure is evenly shared by all muscle groups.
6. Do not make actions that exceed the physical load due to pressure or expectations of the audience
7. Avoid extending the joint to the limit, otherwise it will cause damage to the surrounding tendon or tissue
8. It does depend on individual ability to determine training intensity
9. In order to balance muscle development, it is necessary to train the strength of antagonistic muscles
10. Exercise softness training on muscles during exercise to avoid injury
11. Do not ignore the signs of inflammation, swelling or pain, otherwise it will delay the recovery of the affected area
12. Do not rely too much on analgesics because it will also disguise the warnings issued by the affected area while reducing swelling and pain, and reduce self-immunity.
13. No matter how subtle the symptoms are, you must remain vigilant and actively guard against it. Outdoor climbing skills, rock climbing injuries and prevention! Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
(B) Implementation
1. Warm-up and finishing exercise: Warm-up before exercise is the primary task of preventing sports injuries. In terms of climbing, you can climb the simple route on the cross wall for 2-3 minutes to promote blood circulation until the body is slightly sweaty, but the principle of the arm is not to be hardened (pump). Next, in order to increase muscle elasticity and avoid strain, 20 minutes of softness can be performed. The principles of stretching exercise are as follows: each movement is maintained for 10 seconds statically; do not forcefully pressurize the muscles; the tendons have a feeling of being pulled, but not painful; the principle of lightness and slowness is maintained during the exercise, and the breath is kept deep; Each action 2-3 times. The finishing exercise after climbing is designed to stimulate blood circulation, take away metabolites, and reduce muscle pain. The same steps are taken when warming up.
2. Softness training: Softness training enhances the stretchability of muscles and is important for increasing the range of joint motion and preventing muscle strain. In addition, the higher the degree of stretching, the greater the increase in muscle strength, and the higher the chance of poor flexibility in people with tendonitis. In order to prevent injuries to the hands, shoulders, and elbows, upper body softness training should include: neck, shoulder, biceps, triceps, deltoid, flexor digitorum, extensor digitorum, and back muscles. stretch. Outdoor climbing skills, rock climbing injuries and prevention! Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
3. Muscle strength training: Insufficient muscular strength is often the cause of many sports injuries. For example, some tendons in rock climbers are due to the fact that the strength of the biceps muscle is much greater than that of the antagonistic muscle-triceps, which makes the triceps tendons. Caused by tearing. For rock climbers, antagonistic muscle training should focus on the strength of the forearm extensor, triceps, and back muscles, commensurate with the development of forearm flexors, biceps, and abdominal muscles. Second, in order to reduce the snoring rate of the shoulder attack syndrome, it is necessary to strengthen the slewing muscle group, the lower trapezius muscle, and the serratus anterior in order to increase the stability of the shoulder joint.
4. The scheduling of the training program: The correct training program can not only avoid the occurrence of sports injuries, but after the injury, the proper adjustment of the training program can also help the recovery of the affected area. In order to fully restore the physiological condition, a rest day must be placed on a series of climbing days. In principle, explosive training must be conducted every two days.
Strength endurance training can last for two consecutive days, but there must be an equal number of rest days. Muscle endurance training can be continued for 3 to 6 days and then rest for 1 to 2 days. Second, there must be enough rest between each route during climbing, which is generally 5-10 minutes. In addition, avoid repeated attempts to the same action or select a fixed-type route during training.
5. Try to avoid dangerous actions: In addition to micro-injuries, sometimes some of the dangerous actions such as dynamics, undercuts, latch-type grabs, and licking burrows may also cause acute sports injuries such as muscles, tendon injuries, or ligamentous sprains. In principle, we should try to climb with static and balanced movements to avoid stretching the limb to the limit, and we must choose to give up when we feel a little pain.
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