Hand function table range of complex tourbillon, perpetual calendar, to have a simple moon phase, calendar, chronograph. We said that understanding watches starts with automatic winding, and the most epoch-making and unremarkable complication is actually automatic winding.
But in fact, the most practical thing is to move the reserve. The length of the power reserve time of the watch is a manifestation of the brand's watchmaking ability. To a certain extent, it is also convenient for lazy people.
How to extend the dynamic storage time of the watch, there are three methods in simple terms:
Increase clockwork energy
Cal. 3255 movement
This is the quickest and the simplest and most convenient way to extend the dynamic storage time. The principle is like expanding the fuel tank capacity of a car to improve the endurance. To give a famous example, Rolex Rolex, which everyone loves, introduced its own new movement 3255 automatic winding movement at the 2015 Brazil Exhibition, which is the method used.
On the premise of not affecting the size of the movement, Rolex Rolex reduces the thickness of the inner wall of the barrel to increase the space in the box to accommodate a larger capacity of spring, which increases the dynamic storage time of the movement by at least 10 hours, plus With the design of the new wheel train structure, the overall dynamic reserve has increased by 50% compared with the past, reaching 70 hours.
Before Rolex, two brands launched their first 8-day chain almost simultaneously, one was Patek Philippe and the other was Eberhard. In 1997, according to the method of extending the mainspring to 125 cm in length, Ebacco extended the energy storage time of the watch to 8 days. This was a very sensational design at the time. Since then, Ebacus has surrounded this series of watch springs into a figure of eight, becoming one of the brand's iconic elements.
Ebacco 8-day chain
In addition, there is another way to achieve the effect of increasing the clockwork energy, that is, directly adding the number of barrels. Generally speaking, this is also one of the favorite things for watch manufacturers, usually adding 2 to 3 barrels. The typical example is Panerai. Most of its three-day chain or eight-day chain watches use this type of method to increase the duration of dynamic storage.
Chopard LUC Quattro
Can the watch only add 3 barrels at most? No. In 2000, Chopard took the lead in launching the world's first watch with four barrels, the LUC Quattro, with a power reserve of up to 9 days. There is also a particularly exaggerated example, Hublot Hublot's Ferrari special MP-05 LaFerrari watch, its dynamic reserve, reaching an appalling 50 days! For this, it used 11 barrels for the whole time!
Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari
Increase travel time gear train
02
Here is another typical example, that is Portuguese 7 which is loved by thousands of people. The Portuguese 7 uses Cal. 50000, a movement produced by IWC. This movement is famously large, with a diameter of 37.8 mm, but it has a dynamic storage effect of 7 days. This is because the manufacturer added another gear between the original two-wheel car (hour hand) and the barrel, so it can be extended. The overall kinetic energy time of the movement. Through the exploded view of the movement, we can see that this movement has 8 gears, while the general movement has only 5 gears. As the power transmission between the gear trains slows down, the power reserve of the movement also increases.
Analysis chart of IWC 50000 movement
After 2005, IWC modified the 50000 movement to increase the timing gear, and also added a barrel, and equipped with a Glucydur® * balance wheel without fine-tuning needle, while ensuring a high vibration frequency of 4 Hz. 7-day effect, of course, this is something later.
But in fact, Panerai Panerai did a similar thing as early as half a century ago. That is the watch made by Panerai for the Italian Navy in 1950 using the Angelus SF240 movement. Although this movement has only a single barrel, but because of the addition of gears to achieve an 8-day long storage effect, Panerai ’s reprinted Luminor 1950 8 Day released in 2005 is the Angelus SF240 movement that will be stocked that year Remodeled.
Panerai Luminor 1950 8 Day
Reduce vibration frequency
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This method is also well understood. When the quality and length of the mainspring are the same, the higher the vibration frequency means that the finer the unit time is divided, the more energy is consumed, and the lower the vibration frequency, that is, the reduction The output of energy, but it is unavoidable, will obviously affect the accuracy of the watch and win in stability. To give another example, the most accessible to us using this technology to extend the dynamic storage is the POWERMATIC 80 movement of Tissot and the 80-hour dynamic storage movement of Mido and Hamilton.
POWERMATIC 80 movement
This movement is based on the evolution of ETA's 2824 movement. Tissot and ETA jointly developed it to reduce the original 4 Hz vibration frequency to 3 Hz without adding a barrel. That is, 28,800 vibrations per hour Reduced to 21,600 times. The performance of this change is also very obvious, that is, when the second hand sweeps across the disc, you can feel that the smoothness is not as good as before. At the same time, the modified barrel technology mentioned at the beginning is also used to reduce the axis diameter of the barrel and facilitate winding more springs. So as to achieve the effect of raising the original 36-hour dynamic reserve to 80 hours.
Since modern people's lives are weekends and weekends, the "standby time" of the watch is very important, otherwise it would be too much trouble to manually wind the watch when you take it off to work on Monday. Therefore, most of the watches we have come into contact with can basically have a dynamic storage effect over 42 hours to ensure that you can steal a lazy day on Saturday and Sunday!
In general, dynamic storage is a more practical basic function. With this additional function, the price may be 20% to 30% more expensive. The longer the dynamic storage time of mechanical watches means the more expensive the price, but it is not that the longer the dynamic storage time, the better.
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