David Rowland.2001.Bloc buster - a two-hour bouldering workout for beginners.
Climbing Magazine, No 204, June 15 : p112
Translation: Zhao Zikai
Bouldering allows the climber to effectively increase explosive power and improve his skills. Most beginners spend their time on the long route to the toproping artificial rock field, and the progress of climbing ability is limited. People who have just come into contact with rock climbing often suffer from fear of bouldering because of the difficulty of the course, or cause excessive sports injuries.
This article will introduce an interesting set of "two-hour bouldering exercises." It will guide the climbers who are just getting started to experience bouldering. You will also find that after a period of bouldering, your strength and skills will obviously improve. .
※ The first hour of training content
Follow an important rule: "After climbing the first route, you will then complete the second and third..." (Success breeds success)
According to this rule, in the first hour of your training, in order to promote rock climbing skills, you must try a difficult bouldering route.
Among the various types of rock climbing, bouldering requires superb climbing skills, such as the way to grab points, how to move the center of gravity, and how to grasp the sequence and rhythm of climbing. This is what you can learn while bouldering. . The more difficult bouldering you can accomplish, the more skill you will learn, and your body will be better able to try other more difficult routes.
So the first hour of practice is to find a bouldering route that is sufficient to test your climbing limit, but the route should not be too difficult. You must be able to climb it in the first hour.
Here are some guidelines to follow when designing routes:
(1) Design 6 moves (moves). Actions must be enough to test your strength and skill, but don't go to the point where the arm will be pumped.
(2) Don't design the kind of route that you can climb the first time or the second time. This route is too simple and the training effect will be poor.
(3) Avoid difficult routes. If you all fall at the same point, or you do not want to climb the end, it means that the route is too difficult and simple to change.
(4) If you are out of a good line, repeat each exercise. You can try different feet and different actions. Step by step, practice each movement and make it perfect. Remember that you don't need to start from scratch every time you try.
(5) Have a good rest. Each time you try the route, take a break of 3 to 5 minutes and get enough rest to get up.
(6) Design your own route. If someone else's route is too difficult, you can modify the route to suit your own difficulty, or find friends with similar ability to climb and give each other a route to climb.
(7) Remember that climbing is the most important goal. In the first hour, do your best to complete 1-2 routes.
※ Second hour practice content - Let's try that again
The only limitation of this set of practice is that you must give up the actions you cannot try. Because when you design a difficult move, you start to truly "train". For those who are just getting started climbing, there is no need to deliberately do training.
In the second hour, you have to repeat the route you previously completed to the very limit, which will make your skills more sophisticated and increase your endurance.
There is an easy-to-remember word: "Rule of threes." In simple terms, three routes are repeated three times, with an interval of three minutes. For example, in the first hour you have tried several difficult routes that are suitable for you. After practice, you feel that the routes seem to be simple, and then go into the second hour of practice.
First climb one of the routes first. After the climb, take a rest for 3 minutes. Repeat for the second time. Take a rest for at least 3 minutes. Finally, climb the same route for the third time. After the first route climbs three times, take a rest for 10 minutes. The second and third lines also repeat this pattern to complete it. If we do not think that we can climb enough, we can continue the fourth route. In this way, you have completed the "two-hour bouldering practice."
※Less attention to climbing quality (Less is more)
For beginners, the biggest reason for the rock climbing's progress is because of skill improvements -- not explosiveness or endurance.
When the body is fully rested after practice, the skills will truly become yours. What you need to do at this stage is "rest." Keep at least one day off after practice. If you still feel tired and can increase the number of days of rest, do not feel that you have too much rest.
Finally, I want to stress that there are many benefits to bouldering, one of which is that you spend only 2 hours of bouldering, and that the extent of your rock climbing ability is definitely more effective than you have spent the entire evening toproping climbing paths.
Note 1: The two-hour period does not include warm-up time and time to close.
Note 2: The rest of the rest can look at other people's climbing action and it will definitely help you.
Translator's Note:
If you feel that the 2-hour training intensity is not enough, you can try to change the training content: the first stage can be changed to 2-3 hours, and the route can be increased to 4-5. The second phase is still dominated by three routes. If there is still physical strength, it will increase by 1-2.
If the route cannot be completed in this phase, it may be that the route is too difficult or the power is getting worse. The workaround is to change a good point or increase the foot point at the difficult point. In addition, if you fall at a certain point, you don't need to start from scratch. Just climb from the degenerate point and follow it. After the completion of the route, you will see it as a trip.
Climbing Magazine, No 204, June 15 : p112
Translation: Zhao Zikai
Bouldering allows the climber to effectively increase explosive power and improve his skills. Most beginners spend their time on the long route to the toproping artificial rock field, and the progress of climbing ability is limited. People who have just come into contact with rock climbing often suffer from fear of bouldering because of the difficulty of the course, or cause excessive sports injuries.
This article will introduce an interesting set of "two-hour bouldering exercises." It will guide the climbers who are just getting started to experience bouldering. You will also find that after a period of bouldering, your strength and skills will obviously improve. .
※ The first hour of training content
Follow an important rule: "After climbing the first route, you will then complete the second and third..." (Success breeds success)
According to this rule, in the first hour of your training, in order to promote rock climbing skills, you must try a difficult bouldering route.
Among the various types of rock climbing, bouldering requires superb climbing skills, such as the way to grab points, how to move the center of gravity, and how to grasp the sequence and rhythm of climbing. This is what you can learn while bouldering. . The more difficult bouldering you can accomplish, the more skill you will learn, and your body will be better able to try other more difficult routes.
So the first hour of practice is to find a bouldering route that is sufficient to test your climbing limit, but the route should not be too difficult. You must be able to climb it in the first hour.
Here are some guidelines to follow when designing routes:
(1) Design 6 moves (moves). Actions must be enough to test your strength and skill, but don't go to the point where the arm will be pumped.
(2) Don't design the kind of route that you can climb the first time or the second time. This route is too simple and the training effect will be poor.
(3) Avoid difficult routes. If you all fall at the same point, or you do not want to climb the end, it means that the route is too difficult and simple to change.
(4) If you are out of a good line, repeat each exercise. You can try different feet and different actions. Step by step, practice each movement and make it perfect. Remember that you don't need to start from scratch every time you try.
(5) Have a good rest. Each time you try the route, take a break of 3 to 5 minutes and get enough rest to get up.
(6) Design your own route. If someone else's route is too difficult, you can modify the route to suit your own difficulty, or find friends with similar ability to climb and give each other a route to climb.
(7) Remember that climbing is the most important goal. In the first hour, do your best to complete 1-2 routes.
※ Second hour practice content - Let's try that again
The only limitation of this set of practice is that you must give up the actions you cannot try. Because when you design a difficult move, you start to truly "train". For those who are just getting started climbing, there is no need to deliberately do training.
In the second hour, you have to repeat the route you previously completed to the very limit, which will make your skills more sophisticated and increase your endurance.
There is an easy-to-remember word: "Rule of threes." In simple terms, three routes are repeated three times, with an interval of three minutes. For example, in the first hour you have tried several difficult routes that are suitable for you. After practice, you feel that the routes seem to be simple, and then go into the second hour of practice.
First climb one of the routes first. After the climb, take a rest for 3 minutes. Repeat for the second time. Take a rest for at least 3 minutes. Finally, climb the same route for the third time. After the first route climbs three times, take a rest for 10 minutes. The second and third lines also repeat this pattern to complete it. If we do not think that we can climb enough, we can continue the fourth route. In this way, you have completed the "two-hour bouldering practice."
※Less attention to climbing quality (Less is more)
For beginners, the biggest reason for the rock climbing's progress is because of skill improvements -- not explosiveness or endurance.
When the body is fully rested after practice, the skills will truly become yours. What you need to do at this stage is "rest." Keep at least one day off after practice. If you still feel tired and can increase the number of days of rest, do not feel that you have too much rest.
Finally, I want to stress that there are many benefits to bouldering, one of which is that you spend only 2 hours of bouldering, and that the extent of your rock climbing ability is definitely more effective than you have spent the entire evening toproping climbing paths.
Note 1: The two-hour period does not include warm-up time and time to close.
Note 2: The rest of the rest can look at other people's climbing action and it will definitely help you.
Translator's Note:
If you feel that the 2-hour training intensity is not enough, you can try to change the training content: the first stage can be changed to 2-3 hours, and the route can be increased to 4-5. The second phase is still dominated by three routes. If there is still physical strength, it will increase by 1-2.
If the route cannot be completed in this phase, it may be that the route is too difficult or the power is getting worse. The workaround is to change a good point or increase the foot point at the difficult point. In addition, if you fall at a certain point, you don't need to start from scratch. Just climb from the degenerate point and follow it. After the completion of the route, you will see it as a trip.
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